A Cheaper, Easier, and More Durable Chalk Paint Alternative

For those of you that want the appearance of chalk paint without the cost and hassle,  I’ve found a process that gives you the same look but without the high cost…  With my better alternative to chalk paint, you can even achieve the aged look of dark wax without the extra time involved and I’ll show you the best type of paint for wood furniture.

Why is this furniture technique better than using chalk paint and wax?

  1.  This product is MUCH less expensive.  I give a full cost break-down in my post Why I Don’t Use Chalk Paint, showing the drastic expense of chalk paint versus my favorite paint for furniture.
  2. Not only is it much cheaper, but it is also easier to use.  There is definitely a learning curve when it comes to waxing furniture.  With this technique, you can get the same look of dark wax with much less effort.
  3. This product is also much more durable, providing a long-lasting finish for years to come. 
  4. This paint does not have to be sealed with wax.  Did you know that if chalk paint is not sealed with wax, it will actually re-liquefy if a cold drink is left on it?
  5. As opposed to chalk paint, this process gives you almost unlimited color options.  This allows you to better coordinate existing room details or to match another piece of furniture.
  6. Last, the supplies are much easier to find as opposed to going to a specialty store.

For more benefits to this technique, be sure to click here.

chalk paint dark wax alternative


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A Better Alternative to Chalk Painting Furniture – Supplies:

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Chalk Paint: Dark Wax Alternative Supplies: 

Valspar Clear Mixing Glaze and a sample pot of Behr Ashwood (both optional).

Best Alternative to Chalk Paint – The Process

1. Lightly Sand Your Furniture Piece

Many readers ask me how to paint wood furniture without sanding.  Unfortunately, if you don’t sand, you risk wasting all of your time and effort because of paint that won’t stick.

Fortunately, sanding, if done correctly, should not take you more than 5 minutes with very little effort on your part because you are barely roughing up the surface of the wood to accept paint.  You are not sanding to take off all of the old paint as I explain in my post How to Sand Furniture in Less Than 5 Minutes. 

After taking off all hardware, sand your piece using a mouse sander (click here for my favorite low-cost sander).  Just gently go over the surface to rough it up some.  You don’t want to try to take off the existing paint or stain, you just want to take off the shine. 

Spend more time on scratches and dents as needed.  Once you are done, wipe it down with a moist rag. See my posts on how to sand furniture with an electric sander and the best sanders for wood furniture here.

2. How to Prime Furniture

For this dresser, I used Zinsser Bullseye 123 in white. This a water-based tintable primer which means that you can have it tinted just like paint.  This allows your primer coat to not only allow your adhere well but also to help with coverage by tinting it.  This will more than likely save you from an extra coat of paint.  It also settles out really well as it dries meaning that it doesn’t show brush strokes easily.

How to Paint Furniture White

For lighter projects, I just go with a white primer, just as it is in the can.   Also, if you are matching other white furniture, be sure to match it to the white on a paint deck as there are hundreds of shades of white.

How to Paint Furniture Black

For black or gray projects, I have a gallon of gray primer on hand.  If I was painting a piece navy, I would get my primer tinted a slightly lighter shade of navy.  Having a tinted primer minimizes the number of coats. (Your primer doesn’t need to match your paint color.  It just needs to be a stepping stone to build upon.)

Before you start any furniture project, be sure to download my FREE Tips for Painting Furniture for any project.  Don’t start a project without them!


3.  Latex Paint – The Best Alternative to Chalk Paint for Furniture

The primer takes only 30 minutes to dry.  When you’re ready, paint the piece with a roller like THIS one.  It will also save time on your entire project and gives you a much smoother finish than painting with a brush.

best roller to paint furniture

You can also add a product called Floetrol to your paint to minimize brush strokes.  I do this often and love the smooth finish I get every time.  Just read the instructions on the bottle for how much to add and mix it in.

As I mentioned in my post Why I Don’t Use Chalk Paint on Furniture, I counter several claims when many argue why to use chalk paint vs. regular paint.  My experience is with high-end brands of specialty chalk paint.  I didn’t compare chalk paint reviews for the best chalk paint but I feel strongly that any paint with a chalk-based paint component like Valspar chalk paint and even Rustoleum chalk paint will be an inferior product.

Often one of the main criteria for the quality of paint is whether it has additives like calcium carbonate (the main ingredient of many chalk paints and homemade chalk paint recipes).  The more of these additives the less durability the product will have long-term.

furniture painting tips

4.  A Better Alternative to Chalk Paint Wax

Now, say you want to achieve the same look of dark wax without the cost and hassle.  After your coat of latex paint is dry, mix together a 50/50 mix of the Valspar Clear Glazing Mix and your sample container of paint.

My sample color is Behr Ashwood (Home Depot) which is the same color as Valspar Beige Shadow(Lowe’s,) depending on the paint on the store you are at.

Once it is mixed, paint it on your dresser.  See how I obviously missed areas – that’s ok!  It will spread out when we go to wipe – this process is fail-proof!  (The gray I’m using is Behr Cosmic Quest.)

Many readers have asked me where to buy chalk paint but the nice thing about this process is that all the products are easy to find at your local home improvement store.

chalk paint dark wax alternative

Once I painted on the streaks and covered the majority of the piece I took a baby wipe and started wiping it off. (Pamper’s seem to work well for some reason). This is a really easy process as the glazing medium allows the paint to stay wet giving you plenty of time to work with it.

You just keep wiping with your baby wipes in long strokes in the direction of your piece to get the look you want to achieve.   

You cannot mess this up – just keep wiping until you get the look you want.  I love how it gives it that vintage look and it will work with any base color – you might just have to wipe more or less depending on the look you want. (Although I’m using a glazing medium, this process is actually called “color washing”.)

wiping the glaze off a dresser

Should You Add a Clear Coat on Painted Furniture?

For furniture that undergoes a LOT of wear and tear like our coffee table or my daughter’s desk, I added a couple of coats of General Finishes Flat Out Flat clear coat (check the current price here) for extra durability.  To see a video of how to apply it, click here: Best Chalk Paint Top Coat.

What I love about this clear coat is that it will give you the same sheen as chalk paint. Just paint on the topcoat with a foam brush like this one.  These brushes are so cheap that you can just throw them away when you are done.


The Best Type of Paint for Wood Furniture

If I didn’t use this process, the alternative would have been to wax with clear wax and then wax with dark wax to get that look.   Both of those steps take a lot of time and there is a definite learning curve with waxing. 

As I mentioned in my post Why I Don’t Use Chalk Paint, waxed furniture has to be maintained by re-waxing every so often.  With this better alternative to chalk paint, your piece will look fabulous for decades to come with no maintenance!

More Furniture Makeovers

I used the same process on these furniture makeovers and have had amazing results.  All of these furniture pieces have sentimental value so using this process guarantees they will have a beautiful finish for years to come.  You can see my best furniture reveals here: 25 Stunning Painted Furniture Before and Afters

Easy DIY Farmhouse Coffee Table With Turned Legs

How to Faux Stain Furniture (6 Shades to Choose From!)

FAQ’s: The Best Alternative to Chalk Paint

What is the most durable paint for furniture?

Latex is one of the most durable paints for furniture.  There are oil-based paints that dry harder but they are much messier and the fumes are an issue.

Latex paint does well with protecting furniture from moisture and also has some elasticity that prevents cracking of the paint if the furniture warms over time.  Chalk Paint, in my opinion, is not as durable as it is easy to sand off versus latex paint with primer.  Also, as I mentioned in depth here, chalk paint will re-liquefy if a drink is set on it and it is not waxed properly.

What is the best brand of paint for wood furniture?

My favorite furniture paint is Sherwin Williams ProClassic.  It’s a high-performance latex that provides a sprayed-on finish with a roller and self-levels really well.  I’ve also been impressed with its coverage and durability as I mentioned in my post on furniture paint reviews.  They also have hundreds, if not thousands, of colors to choose from which is another advantage of using latex paint compared to chalk paint.

Should I use a brush or roller to paint furniture?

I get this question quite a bit and my answer is BOTH!  For the vast majority of your paintable surface, I recommend using a roller.  Not all roller are created equal as some don’t provide a very smooth finish.  The best paint roller for furniture is the Behr 6″ Best Roller with 3/8″ nap. 

alternative to chalk paint

For more detailed aspects of your furniture piece such as the edges of drawers, feet, and molding, use a brush.  I like this set of brushes because they are inexpensive while providing a smooth finish and I don’t have to worry about loose bristles getting into my paint finish.

What is the best type of paint for outdoor wood furniture?

Every type of latex paint has an exterior counterpart.  Sherwin Williams also has a new house and fence paint that is extremely durable.  If you use a glaze on outdoor furniture, I would go over it with an outdoor clear coat like this one to ensure the elements don’t wash or damage the finish.

My Best Tips for Spray Painting Hardware

For my favorite tips and tricks on getting  a flawless finish every time with spray paint, click here for your free checklist:  Best Tips & Tricks for Spray Painting Anything

Painting Wood Furniture: Ideas and Tips

Now you have a furniture piece that has the farmhouse look of chalk paint without the extra hassle and expense, not to mention it will have a durable finish for years to come!  For more inspiration, be sure to look at this gallery of painted furniture or check out the rest of my furniture flips.

alternative to chalk paint

 ☑️ My All-Time Best Furniture Painting Tips & Tricks (FREE PRINTABLE)

Don’t forget to download your FREE step-by-step printable checklist that shows you the exact process I’ve used on dozens of furniture pieces while saving you time and money!


Did you like this post? Be sure to share it with others. As always feel free to download my complimentary Scripture printables HERE.  You have dozens of verses to choose from.  Have a wonderful week!


Related Posts on Furniture Painting


Final Thoughts Chalk Paint vs. Regular Paint

There’s a reason that latex paint has been around for so long.  It has consistently provided a durable finish with unlimited color options.  With the technique I outline above, you can have the same look of chalk paint without the expense and hassle of waxing.  Now, it’s time for the only hard part – picking out the right paint color!

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Refinish furniture with less cost, time and hassle while achieving a more durable finish with my better alternative to chalk paint. I'll even show you how to get the aged look of dark wax without the extra time involved.. #alternativetochalkpaint #chalkpaint #waxfurniture #agedlook #renovatedfaith www.renovatedfaith.com


Refinish furniture with less cost, time and hassle while achieving a more durable finish with my better alternative to chalk paint. I'll even show you how to get the aged look of dark wax without the extra time involved.. #alternativetochalkpaint #chalkpaint #waxfurniture #agedlook #renovatedfaith www.renovatedfaith.com





best latex paint for furniture

What are your thoughts?   If you have any questions about your furniture projects, I’d love to answer them in the comment section below!



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A Better Alternative to Chalk Paint – Painting Technique

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  1. If I decide to sand down to the bare wood and I am using a dark paint do I still need a primer? I’ve also heard others say that you do not have to use wax with chalk paint, that you can use polyurethane instead. What are your thoughts on that please? I believe you are on the right track by not using the chalk paints but of course I still have questions. Thanks!

    1. Great question! If you are to the bare wood and you are sure there are no oils on the wood (cleaners, etc.), then you should be just fine with only paint.

    2. I loved your bedroom with the silver strand
      Did you refinish the dressing table and if so what colors and techniques did you do

  2. This is wonderful information! Thank you. In a house of boys I need durability but love the chalk paint look! If I want a distressed look should I go with a darker primer? I plan to paint my piece white but want grey to show through in some spots… I have read about using Vaseline to do this- I’m thinking a grey primer and white paint… what are your thoughts?

    1. Great question Lizzy! I’m assuming you mean the velvety feel of the furniture wax. You can always use clear wax over paint if that is important to you. Otherwise a matte clear coat like the one I mentioned will have a similar feel. Thanks for your comment!

  3. Your work is beautiful and thank you for sharing your ideas. I’m no artist, but I have enjoyed painting furniture and transforming junk yard stuff long before it was a popular. Faux finishing and distressing furniture was a lot of fun especially since I never worried about the tools and products I needed. I just used whatever I could buy for cheap, found on clearance, or what ever someone else was throwing away. Sometimes I didn’t even bother to prime my pieces. A light sanding was usually enough unless I was planning on doing a stain finish. I mean no disrespect to the younger generation when I say that all the fancy products being sold now is really not needed especially since social media has made it so easy for people to share their ideas like you have. I believe as long as a person is having fun and is not afraid to experiment or make mistakes then that’s all that really matters. If you have the extra money and would like to try a new product then go for it, otherwise just use whatever you have on hand be it latex, oil based, craft paint, polyurethane, floor wax, cheap brushes, glue, salt ,vinegar, rags, and anything else you have around the kitchen or bathroom closet. I say have fun and then take joy in the fact you crafted, painted, built or repurposed something that you and your family will enjoy and use.

    1. I couldn’t agree more Doreen. The best projects are the ones where you use what you have an have fun doing them. Thank you so much for taking the time to share your experiences with DIY. I agree that there’s nothing like the satisfaction of having worked on a piece yourself. Have a great day!

    2. Just reading this post … 10 months later. Doreen, I love your attitude!! Karin, not sure how I found you, but will be looking for more of your posts now that I have.

    1. Great question Sarah. I’m kind of a stickler for a smooth finish so you can to just lightly sound out any brush strokes but its definitely not required. Thanks for your comment and for stopping by!

    2. I discovered Valspar Cabinet & Furniture paint this summer. It’s got an enamel finish. You don’t need to sand before painting or between coats, and because it’s an enamel finish, you don’t need a top coat. I used a deglosser to prep. I painted my kids’ beds and side tables that are over 60 years old and have been used by multiple generations. I love the results we got.

  4. I’m just wondering…….my experience with latex paints in other applications, latex can bubble and peel like a skin. Does using the primer stop that from happening with the furniture?

    I’ve been doing a bunch of research….love the look of chalk paint but not the expense. And if I ever gifted or sold a piece I would definitely want it to be highly durable and long lasting.

    Thank you!

    1. Yes, you are exactly right. It’s the primer that adhere’s the latex paint to the surface so it won’t peel. Chalk paint adhere’s well but it’s not durable and latex on it’s own doesn’t adhere well but it’s very durable. So that’s where the primer comes into play. Thank you for stopping by and let me know if you have any other questions!

  5. I would like to paint my antique island a shade of blue and brush on some areas of black along the edges to match another piece of furniture I already have. Do I dry brush the black on or use the black as a primmer snd sand it off? And what should I use to seal it? I want it very country and nothing shinny. Thank you for your help.

    1. Hey Katherine,
      I would use the same instructions in this post with the glaze but use black paint to mix with the glaze. Just brush it on either ofer the whole cabinet or over the parts you want to accent. Then, use the baby wipes to wipe off the excess. Then, I would go over it with a clear coat to give it a matte finish and to seal in the glaze – Either Varathane’s WATER-BASED polyurethane in Satin (they might have a matte) or Crystalac’s Clear Coat in Matte. I hope this helps. Let me know if you have any other questions!

      1. In the Sherwin Williams latex paint, which finish do you use…flat, matte, satin, or gloss? I’m assuming flat /matte? Thank you

  6. Should I still put an under coat of primmer under my blue paint and have it tinted blue? Thank you for your help!


  7. How is this a better alternative to chalk paint when you have to sand, prime, and seal it? Chalk paint doesn’t require u to do anything , except paint and seal with a top coat if in an area that will be exposed to water. After buying all the materials for this process, there’s no way that it’s cheaper than just buying chalk paint and wax.

  8. Hi. I have a piano that needs a make over. Will this process work on that? I want to paint t to match my other furniture. Which is a yellow -ish color. Thanks

    1. It absolutely will Toni! Just use the same primer and color match the paint to the other furniture pieces you mentioned. Let me know if you have any questions!

  9. What about my camper? Since it lives 300 miles away and I only have two weeks to paint it, I am taking a couple years to do the sections. I still have the bathroom (no steam) and can’t sand the walls much….and don’t have electricity. Can we make latex work?

  10. Hi! I love your tutorials. My question is I just want to bring out the details on select areas of a mirror I’m painting with the paint you suggested, can I just put the glaze on those areas and wipe off? I don’t want the aged look all over but don’t want it to look like two different jobs!

    1. Yes! That is my favorite look actually. You will paint the glaze over those areas only and then wipe those off unti you get the look you want. Great question!

      1. I also love the French Linen. Are you saying just a base coat with no tint or color would be the best match? Thanks for all of your great advice.

  11. You can make your own glaze of any color by mixing Floetrol and latex paint. A ratio of two parts Floetrol to one part paint. Apply to furniture with damp, lint free cloth. Much cheaper then the name brand glazing mediums.

  12. Hello! I feel like I learned something here but also I’m confused about the wax alternative. I have a navy piece and I wanted to add dark antiquing wax. So I should use glaze and what exactly? The navy or a brownish? I do wish there was a photo of that same side when it was finished to show the end result. Thanks for our help!

  13. I have some cabinets that are NOT in the kitchen and so they do not get much wear and tear or water but they were originally a golden oak color. We went over them with a General Finishes dark walnut and I think a gel topcoat (not totally sure about that). Now i would like to paint white over them and have kind of a dark or distressed look as well. Do I need to sand off all or part of the dark walnut gel stain and top coat? Do I need to prime with a dark tint under the white latex? Can you share some advice? I am not experienced at DIY projects at all.

    1. You do not have to sand off the old coat. You just want to sand it lightly to scuff it up. Here is the process in this post. Let me know if you have any questions at all Katy!

  14. I totally agree. I chalk painted my kitchen table and was so disappointed. The chairs would soak up any stain. Yes, I waxed it. I had to repaint it with sherwinn Williams and it’s so much better !! I now paint all my furniture using sherwinn Williams latex and top coat it with a clear satin and the results are fantastic!!

    1. I couldn’t agree more. I hate to be such a downer to so many using chalk paint but you can really get better results with latex. Thanks so much for your comment Dawn!

  15. Good morning!
    I purchased a gorgeous piece of furniture painted with Sherwin Williams latex paint…and the top is waxed.
    How can I add a clear coat without having to re-paint the top?
    I know it won’t stick to the wax. But how can I remove it without removing the paint? Is that possible?
    The piece is going in my 9 year old’s room, so durability is important.

    1. Hmmm… That’s interesting that they put wax over latex. I think you’ll be okay since the Sherwin Williams latex on it’s own is pretty durable. I think I would leave it and if you want extra durability add a glass top. I added a glass top to the dresser by my daughter’s bed and it’s really nice to not have to worry about her using a coaster for her drinks. Let me know if you have any other questions. Thanks Karen!

    2. I repainted my dining table and chairs which were chalk painted and waxed. I thoroughly but gently wiped everything down with turps a couple of times to get rid of the wax. Overpainted with a primer and Valspar satin. It’s worked well. The chalk finish was in good condition but it was a v pale grey which easily got dirty so had to be waxed to remove the marks. Did similar with a wardrobe.

  16. Hi! I went to sherwin Williams site to pick out a navy color in the pro classic. All the darker colors say it is not available for the paint I have chosen. Now what? Thank you

    1. Great question Taylor. I would use Sherwin Williams ProClassic as my first choice or Behr Marquee as my second. I will be paining my kitchen cabinets in the Spring so expect a FULL tutorial then. 🙂 Thanks for commenting!

      1. Hello! I can’t figure out how to comment on my own so I had to hijack this one lol, if I am painting in gray tones, should I still use a beige sample to mix with my glaze for the final step?

        1. Great question! It all depends on the final look you are going for. If you want a more gray antiqued look, then go with a charcoal gray wash in the final step. You can always play around with what looks best on a board before you apply the final step to your piece. Let me know if you have any other questions Leslie!

  17. I found you by searching for ways to make chalk painted furniture more durable. I noticed scratches on a coat rack that I haven’t even hung yet! Can I just paint over the chalk paint with latex? Should I prime over the chalk paint first? I had not applied any wax but had mixed a matte finish varnish with the top coat of chalk. It scuffs sooo easily. Thanks!!

  18. Complete novice here. I have a set of highly polished table, chairs and china cabinet I want to repaint and have a matte look, but super smooth finish, at the end. Can i sand, prime and paint and then just put a clear sealer on top? Is there any other step I need to do? Also, it would be very helpful if you had a list of all the materials needed together in one spot instead of posting links to them 🙂 Thanks a ton, so excited to have found this site!!

  19. Hi! I’ve already painted some pieces with chalk paint before reading this post. Can I use the alternative to waxing over the chalk paint?

  20. Hi! Was wondering what color SW paint you used? I’m searching up and down the blog and can’t find it. Thanks so much! 😍

  21. Does this only work for solid wood? I have a bookcase that is made of “wood, MDF and veneer”. Will this process work? Also, I want to distress it a bit and have the original wood stain look show through. Is it possible to do that with this process?

  22. Hi Karin. Great article with so much inspiration. I myself feel the same way about chalk paint! So I was excited to see that you have had success with latex paint. I have one question though. Is it possible to just buy a paint with primer already in it? Will it work as good?


    1. Hi Amber! Thank you for taking the time to comment. I’d say it depends a lot on the type of latex paint you use. Some that claim to have a primer included don’t seem that different to me that just latex paint. I’ve had better luck with painting on the primer separately even though it is an extra step! Thank you and have a great day.

  23. You should try heirloom traditions paint, it’s amazing! It has a top coat in it! It’s durable for indoor or outdoor and practically any surface! I painted my kitchen island and a coffee cart a few months ago and am now working on my kitchen cabinets. I love diy stuff! Check them out on Facebook, you can even get a free sample, you just pay shipping.

  24. I love this post. But I have a different problem. I have some Annie Sloan chalk paint already. Bought it a few years ago. Surprisingly, it is still usable. Did plastic Easter eggs with my grands this weekend. I don’t like painted furniture. I love the natural look of wood. But I paid a nice chunk of change for this paint and the wax an am wondering if you have some small project ideas so I can use it up. My eggs came out great but I only need so many eggs. Any ideas for non furniture, non mirror, non lamp uses? If the projects are kid friendly so much the better. My grands love to do projects with me.

    Thanks so much

      1. Have you used Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel? I’ve started using it instead of the Pro Classic. I love it. trim, doors, furniture.

  25. Just found your web site today. I have a beat up chest that I have just decided how I want to finish it. There’s an open cubby that I want antiqued turquoise blue, the outside an antiqued cream and the top a dark wood stain. Your instructions are perfect for the painted wood, but what would you recommend for the stain? I know I have a lot of sanding to do because someone attempted badly a painted finish.

  26. Can you still distress latex painted furniture? I want to paint an oak electric fireplace to give it a French country look. Would you do a sealant over this project if there won’t be much handling of the furniture after it’s done? Also, it has lots of intricate details in the carving-would you attempt a spray primer and spray paint for this project or use a brush? I don’t love the look of brush strokes that I have seen when I have chalk painted other furniture.

    1. Anything that is not too large and that is very detailed is a good candidate for spray paint. I wouldn’t worry about a sealant if you spray paint it. Thanks Susan!

  27. Hello,
    Question – how I achieve a black mist look on top of the gray paint that I used. I am trying to get the dresser I’m painting to match my daughters crib, which is “antique gray mist”. It almost looks like there are drips of black paint on it. Definitely doesn’t appear that it was painted on with a brush.

  28. In August 2019 you told Janis to use the latex sheen she liked (matte or satin) for the painted furniture surface. However if you are using a Varathane satin topcoat won’t it supercede the latex sheen that was applied to the furniture?
    My thought is if you used a matte latex paint, the final sheen of the furniture becomes the sheen of the topcoat, eg matte, satin, or gloss. Do you agree?

  29. Hi Karin! What is your suggestion for a nice Sherwin Williams gray, on the lighter side but not too light, I’d like some depth?
    This is for a dresser and nightstands.
    Thank you!

  30. Hi Karin,
    Just wondering about your paint suggestions. Why use the Zinsser Primer under the Marquee or Valsper products that are one coat paint + primer?

  31. I thought I’d give you another inexpensive tool for your tool box, as far as clear coats is concerned.
    Pick up some of the paint base for the darkest colors. Black, navy, whatever. With BM it’s a 4 or 5, which I prefer. (SW dries a little milky. )

    Anyway, get Exterior, Latex, Flat, dark paint base. It has all of the UV protection and waterproofing elements of latex paint, without any pigment. It goes on a shocking white, but dries so invisibly you cannot prove it’s even on the piece. Unless you put water on it and it beads up!

    It’s excellent for raw wood looks, or even chippy finishes that need sealing, but you don’t want to have any shine or discoloration polys give. It’s so flat I’ve had paint store people tell me it wasn’t there — when they tested it on the paint stick. (No one believes me.)

    For a chippy finish, it dries so well, you can’t tell they’re sealed. You cannot pick the chips off with your fingernails, yet there’s no gummy look like polys leave.

    This is SO much less expensive than beautiful General Finishes products. It’s also readily available. I’d test the other brands, but I do love the BM results.

    I hope this gives you another option for less money. It did me!

  32. Hi, what color matches with the name brand paints have you found are the closest to ASCP “Old White”?

  33. My favorite part of this post is the scriptures. Thank you for giving the Glory to God for He deserves it all.
    Bless you and your work. Mariea

  34. Hi, I am late to this party but I was wondering why no one has mentioned using a paint/primer combo, eliminating the need to buy two cans of anything? This is my usual method for anything I’ll paint and uber common for latexes (almost the new normal I’d bet). I’m about to paint my first piece of furniture and want it to be perfect and durable and chalk paint is not appealing to me since I don’t like distressed furniture and it’s really pricey. I want an enameled, semi-flat (satin is pretty perfect) modern look for this piece and it will be a dark color. Any tips towards that would be appreciated. I don’t plan on making this a hobby and want to spend the least amount to get the results I want.

    1. Misty, great question! Yes, you are exactly right that most latexes say “paint and primer in one” but my understanding is the “primer” that is added is usually chemically similar to the actual paint. Why they do this – I don’t know. One way to save money on paint is to use a primer as the Zinsswer Bullseye primer is cheaper than paint. You can get a quart and a lot of times I will just buy a sample container or two of paint if the furniture piece is not very large. You can ask at the counter about the price comparison. What color are you thinking?

  35. Hello!

    I have an old table (vintage at least) that needs some love. Thrift 30 years ago…anyway, I’d like to paint the top black and leave the legs their current color, medium oak. What’s the best method for this?

  36. I have a dresser that is white that has been splatter painted with the primary colors that I want to redo. I was thinking of stripping it first as I am not sure if lead paint was used. Should I sand it after I strip it? If so, what grit of sand paper should I use? This is my first DIY. Thanks for your help 🙂

  37. I just followed your directions & used the same products you suggested on a hutch. Turned out really nice, except if the paint gets nicked, it will just peel right off, I could even scrape it off with my fingernail! Any suggestions?

  38. Hi, Karin. I’m almost ready to try your method for painting the top of my maple dining room table. I understand your directions for sanding, wiping down, priming, painting with latex. After that, I’m not clear. If I roll or brush the latex on, do I need to then dilute the latex with glaze and wipe with a baby wipe? Or, is that only for dark colors? I’m using a cream colored latex on the tabletop & want it to look like chalk paint, but I’m not sure how to get that look.. or, is the latex enough on its own & do I just put the top coat on next? Thank you very much.

    1. Hey Darlene, Great questions! Do you want it to look like it has been chalk painted and then dark waxed? That’s kind of an aged look. If you want the aged/dark wax look, you mix up the glaze with the dark brown latex paint and brush it on. Then immediately wipe it off with baby wipes along the grain of the wood. Let me know if you have any other questions! 🙂 – Karin

  39. Hi Karen,

    I have a bar piece that has flowers carved into the front. Similar to your Blue Tall Boy Dresser. How do you handle the sanding on those details? Do you sand by hand or recommend a tool for that?

    Thank you!

    1. Hey DeeDee, You can use a mouse sander or sand by hand. If you use a mouse sander just go over it lightly. They don’t sand enough deeply enough to remove the details. Let me know if you have any other questions.

  40. Thank you for this post. I’ve always liked the idea of chalk paint but not waxing and re-waxing annually …

    The top coat you recommended here says not to use this on white or light colors due to yellowing. I’m planning to paint a small buffet white, what have you used and recommend for white/light colors?

  41. With this method, how would you get the glazed, or antique looking finish? I’m referring to the crevices being a darker color to give depth. Would you rub on an oil-based stain then rub it off, or is there a better way to do it?

    1. Hey Debra, Great question! This same technique will work to provide a more antiqued look but this piece of furniture doesn’t have any crevices. For a piece with lots of detail, I think it would work really well. You might want to go over the more detailed part with the glaze a second time if you want it darker. Hope this helps! – Blessings,

  42. Have you tried using Sherwin-Williams Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel yet for furniture projects?
    It’s a hybrid product similar to their Proclassic Acrylic-Alkyd, but can be tinted to the darker colors that the Proclassic lines can’t. I love the Satin and Semi-Gloss finish and have used it on a lot more surfaces including Terra cotta pots!

  43. Hi Karen,

    Love your projects, and they way they turned out. I really could use your advise. I have an antique dinning room set that I would like to update. I too am a big fan of Behr paint, and use it on all of my projects. I never used chalk paint before. My question to you is when you use the Behr paint, do you use the chalk paint recipe or do you use it straight out of the can so to speak. Would love to get your input on my next project, please

  44. Hello, I looked through some posts and comments, but may have missed it. Could you comment on or direct me to a link on distressing wood projects with this method. Just wondering how it works compared to chalk paint also. Thanks!

  45. Hi Karin
    For the laytex paint isn’t there water and oil based? If so do I ask for oil based or water based laytex?

    1. Hey Lisa, This is a great question. Latex is usually water-based and most will know it as such. There’s no oil-based latex paints but Sherwin Williams and Benjamin Moore sell hybrid products that are water-based but have the good characteristics of oil-based paints. If you want one of these, you can ask for the “hybrid” product but plain latex is always water-based. Let me know if you have any other questions! – Blessings, Karin

      1. Thank you. I’m trying your steps. I have sanded then cleaned and have put a coat of the primer you suggested. I bought behr marquee so question is do I need more than one coat of primer and two do I need to sand again after I primed or can I just paint?

        1. Hey Lisa, I think one coat of primer is good. You can sand again after the primer has dried for a really smooth finish but you certainly don’t have to! Please let me know if you have any other questions Lisa! – Blessings, Karin

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